Italy by train – Holidays that cost the Earth nothing

Before the arrival of the Channel Tunnel and then the Eurostar, traveling by train to Italy was quite an undertaking. Once he had negotiated the British Rail and cross-channel ferry part of the journey, there was the prospect of an uncomfortable night in a sleeping car. Many people may still be intimidated by the prospect of a 600+ mile trip through at least 3 countries and opt to jump on a plane instead.

These days, thankfully, we can put aside any concerns you may have. Furthermore, with airports and flying becoming an increasingly dehumanizing experience, there are more reasons than ever to choose a greener and more civilized mode of travel.

I left the beautifully restored St. Pancras International aboard the Eurostar. Although more expensive, I recommend Leisure Select (previously 1st Class) as it has more room to stretch out, tasty food, and free drinks to get you in the holiday mood. Then you can sit back and enjoy the views as the Kentish countryside and Northern France flash by, before you know it (well, 2 hours and 15 minutes actually) you’re in Paris!

Arriving at Gare du Nord I took the RER to Gare de Lyon, changing trains at Châtelet Les Halles. The journey takes about 20 minutes. However, if you don’t feel like lugging your suitcase through the metro, take a taxi. It can be a bit longer by taxi, depending on traffic, though you get the benefit of seeing glimpses of Paris and the Seine and don’t have to worry about getting on the wrong train or dealing with your luggage. Better yet, give yourself 3 or 4 hours in Paris or stay overnight in a hotel and stroll along the banks of the Seine, through the Jardins des Tuileries or through Notre Dame and the Ile St. Louis. Whichever method you choose to cross Paris, I would always allow 1 hour to 90 minutes between the two stations to ensure you have plenty of time to enjoy the experience.

My destination was Dijon, chosen because it is a good place to take a break on your journey and it is a very attractive medieval city. The TGV from Paris takes you there in about 1 hour and 40 minutes, passing through beautiful French countryside. I spent the night at the 4 star Mercure Dijon Clemenceau. The hotel is about a mile from the station, 5-10 minutes by taxi, and very comfortable. There are 2 and 3 star hotels closer to the station.

Feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep and the classic French breakfast of croissant and coffee, I continued my journey from Dijon to Milan, changing trains in Bern. The benefit of this route is that you enjoy a more scenic route to Italy, through the Swiss Alps and, in this case, the beautiful Bernese Oberland. You can also ride another elegant TGV followed by the Cisalpino tilting train that winds its way to Milan. Traveling on day trains, you get the benefit of all the stunning sights from the comfort of your seat.

If you’re in a hurry, you can reach Milan in a day from London or travel overnight on a sleeper train. Although I prefer the more relaxed day trip.